Building a Work Shop: Installing Metal Roof


hey guys welcome back it is day five and
we were thinking we were gonna get a ice storm of some sort they were calling for
some freezing precipitation thankfully it did not come so we are going to we’re
gonna get our roof separated for some reason sometimes I remember sometimes I
don’t and have the metal sales manufacturing split it into two bunks
when I don’t remember it means we’ve got to split it ourselves because obviously
we don’t want to put it all up in one I guess one attempt we want to split it
for the weight on the scissor lift because anything 48 wide and smaller we
put the steel up in the scissor lift and take it up anything bigger than 48 we
use a plank and the telehandler to lift it up to the roof double-check
everything to make sure it’s square we’ve got to run our what we call a mini
angle it covers the top of our fascia board and then we come back behind it
and mark out it feels like a snow day doesn’t it yeah it kind of does I do
then we come back after the mini angles down and we mark out the layout of all
of our steel so we’ll go three foot ones back 16 nine foot one so while we’re
down here laying out the bottom Greg is up top running the top nailer row that
way we can stay parallel to the end make sure that we end in the same position
this is a 60 foot long roof which means we can lay our ribs right on the edge of
the roof and we’ll have one in the exact same spot on the other end using up 20
panels to do the entire roof without any way so that’s awesome so once we get
that marked out we’ll lay our closure strips that’s what we use to keep
anything from you know blowing wind or snow up into the building from the ribs
out of the soffits now these are the closure strips that I’m talking about
and they match the profile of the steel real nice that way they fill up the rib
and the minors and they get squished down creating a seal here on top of the
flashing that’s about it once that’s done is just
on to roofing of course I forgot to turn my boom mic on I’ve got the new camera
which I’m using a boom mic on hopefully you guys can notice the difference in
quality I know I do and hopefully it you know transpires maybe it doesn’t matter
too much but this section here you know we’re showing how we start the first
sheet of steel Greg’s got his fall protection on we always come in at 8
foot in with that first trusses so we can walk up it be secure the sheet of
Steel is gonna balance you and just take your time and get up once we have that
first one set on our marks and screwed down it does get a lot easier because at
least you have something flat to work on or at least semi flat now you’ll notice
here as I bring the second sheet in I’ve already got my leading edge of the first
sheet right at inch and a half I’m gonna make sure that they’re flush I’m gonna
screw the back lap side first then I’m gonna come over to the syphon rib which
is the leading edge and I’m gonna make sure it’s that inch and a half if it’s
not I have Greg move it one way or the other because it probably means my
fascia board is in or out in between the trusses because remember we made sure
the trusses were straight with a string line now once I get that bottom row done
I can usually reach the second row but we typically leave everything else until
we’re done laying all the sheets on the roof so one of the questions that I
always get is do you punch the roof steel and no we don’t punch the roof
steel what we do is we mark every pearl in going down the sheet after we’ve laid
it and that way we basically connect dots and yeah is it a laser straight
line no it goes back to the hole is it important is it worth it and you know
this whole contractor saying like that’s good enough it’s up on the roof nobody’s
gonna see it except for the birds there’s some truth to that in the sense
that efficiency wise it really doesn’t make sense to try to make a perfect
straight line 20 feet up in the air you do want to make it watertight you want
to make sure your screws hit all the purlins which forces you to be as
straight as possible but you should with experience be able to cross a three foot
panel with a straight line from point to point and make a pretty straight
line so if you’ve been watching any of the previous build series you might see
us use some fall protection on and off and we’re really making a concerted
effort to use fall protection on every job the problem is post frame
construction doesn’t actually have a like official OSHA approved fall
protection system and that’s being worked on I’ve actually talked with 3m
and the national frame Builders Association on that problem but for now
what I’ve got is this is a fall arrest anchor this thing slips over the top
court of a truss and it locks in and with our 2 by 10 top cord trusses it’s
act just like perfect but we put this up at the peak and the biggest thing is
having this stanchion just up enough so that way our our fall arrest system is
above the roof and not like down in the framework because our issue being that
we have a purlin that’s above our trust so when we mount this and our and our
purlins is about right here we’ve still got this ring up above so we put one of
these about every 16 to 24 foot depending on the layout of the building
and I think I give about $30 a piece on these on Amazon I’ll throw the link down
below if anybody’s interested but definitely the older I get the more I
have to lose like kids and a wife I think more about safety and it’s just a
good thing to do as to be as safe as possible yeah so I’ll show you how we
use these there we go so now that’s locked in
there nice and that’s what we will hook well our tether to for our auto
retractable z’ we’re about four feet away from that guy this roof is about 26
foot so we’re kind of maxed out we don’t want our horizontal distance to get too
much bigger or we don’t want it bigger than the distance from the peak to the
overhang this is a contractor version 50-foot fall tech and I’ll go ahead and
put the link to this I bought this off at Amazon I think I give around maybe
somewhere in the four to five hundred bucks 50 foot retractable with the cable
and honestly it’s just a lot better than the ropes we used to attach ropes and
that’s what was so cumbersome and painful you’re always tripping over
ropes at least even though you have this constant pole right I mean that’s what
you kind of complain about the most but there’s a constant pole but I guess the
good thing is is if you were to fall slip it will latch right inside there’s
a mechanism that basically catches so if it if it sees a quick fall it’s gonna
stop you automatically so I get a lot of questions about what we were using for
fall protection these are like I said around 500 bucks they weigh about good
lord I feel like they weigh about 50 pounds and it’s just got a quick-release
thing here and that’s what attaches to that bracket that we were just showing
you so I feel a lot better knowing that we’re up here and if we were to fall at
least we’d dangle and get made fun of for a little bit but we would be living
to see another day right Greg right because we care about each other care by
each other give me that now I already know I’m gonna get the
question why do you guys screw in the flats and not on top of the rib and I’ll
be honest the manufacturers recommended screw pattern is in the flat and unless
you’re going to nail it seem nails have more I guess pliable miss to them
they’re more bendable they are more forgiving in movement and with a post
frame construction where the steel the actual steel skin is your shear strength
that is your diaphragm as in you’re not using any plywood there is movement in
the building and that stress on that fastener is better in the flat where
it’s nice and tight versus sitting up on the rib where there can be flexed
because screws will break way before a nail breakage hence why if you’re using
nails that don’t really seal that well they can work themselves out you want to
put them up on the rib to help aid in any leaking down the road versus a screw
with that neoprene washer is gonna is gonna do its job when done you know
correctly when you install it correctly you know you don’t want to over tighten
it you don’t want to under tighten it but it is gonna do the job and is going
to give you a stronger diaphragm connection in the flat then on top of
the rib so that’s why our our buildings does it doesn’t mean you have to I would
talk to your manufacturer and see what they think is best for you and your
application now I could screw all day literally we
got a lot of spoon to do but just for demonstration purposes I just wanted to
run some clips through I’ve only used this leave this is the second time ever
so I’m getting a little bit better it does take a little bit getting used to
go ahead and do a couple more screws also we’ve marked this rough every sheet
of Steel gets marked so that we know where the purlins are so I’m basically
just connecting connecting the dots well we were able to get this side of roof
done and I’m pretty happy about that because it’s pretty windy
we had some misty snowy icy crap come through and took us off the roof for
just a short while but we’re able to get back up that stopped so now once this
site is done I feel really good about you know having this building partially
locked down the roof diaphragm is a big part of the strength in the building we
still will keep our chains up we’ve got all those angle braces we put up
yesterday but we’re gonna have to do either a little bit of grade work on the
north side of the building the other side in order to roof or we’re gonna
have to bring in my boom lift which I’ll probably end up bringing the boom lift
in due to frozen ground it’s kind of hard to work it and make it level for us
when it’s frozen so once your fire way to check and see if you you made sure
that your building was square and you did a good job laying that roofing is by
having that nice straight line down your fascia and I’ve referenced how we’ve
done that in past videos so if you are curious on how exactly you make your
roofline straight check out I do believe it is the mancave
series and when we are roofing I kind of explained the whole inch and a half push
and pull the sheet to straighten it out so right here behind me is the front end
wall and there’s supposed to be a window right in the middle of this 12-foot
section however when laying out the building we really needed a post
somewhere in there and instead of adding two posts one on each side of the window
I went ahead and put it right through the middle and then what we’re gonna do
is a little bit of a special detail header on this window so on all of our
other windows we measures down from this Girt which is told on our story pole to
be the exact same height on every post and we come through and we’ve measured
down 19 inches so the top of my window is at 19 inches down from this dirt up
here but what I’ve got to do is I gotta add or subtract how I look at it I gotta
go up three inches inch and a half for my window frame and another inch and a
half for the thickness of my stiffener that’s gonna go at the bottom of the
header and I’ll do the same thing at the bottom I’ll go to 19 inches
I’ll go 36 down and then add another three inches for the thickness of my
window frame box and the stiffener at the bottom of the window so the next thing I’ll do is I’ll cut
that post out so that I can run my stiffeners from the door jamb post to
the corner post oh okay because you were singing really
annoying and then you started seeing fairly like you were trying to do a good
job I mean if that’s what you really want to do sing your heart away man yeah
I did warn you I just want you hey you know a lot of people find their singing
career on YouTube Greg perfect well it’s getting dark I’m not able to
finish this window right this minute because I gotta get out of sight I gotta
go you’ve got some other priorities I’ve got to take care of and it’s five
o’clock so I hate leaving little tasks unfinished but that’s the way it’s going
to be we got that first side of roof on we did a lot of grade work so we can
hopefully get the lifts around probably have to bring my boom lifts tomorrow so
that we can be a little bit more efficient and then we’ll get that north
side of roof on hopefully wrap-up soffit fascia maybe start even putting some
house wrap wainscot who knows I think once we get through this site issues and
get that roof on it’s gonna go a lot quicker on the outside because there’s
really not a whole lot of detail work on this one there’s the two overhead doors
a couple windows and one walk door so I’m assuming the next couple days if the
weather cooperates there gonna be a lot happening that being said doesn’t mean
it’s gonna be a boring one make sure you’ve hit that subscribe button so you
follow along with the rest of the build definitely leave me a comment if you got
any feedback on the videos and hit a thumbs up you hit that Vell getting
notified all that good stuff so we can keep being friends here on the YouTube
so we’ll see you guys later

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